The table of ancient times,
travels to the heart of the cuisine and
gastronomy of the first Napoleonic Empire
travels to the heart of the cuisine and
gastronomy of the first Napoleonic Empire
The culinary revolution and the emergence of new standards of luxury and elegance
The first Napoleonic Empire (1804-1815) is a period in French History marked by a certain form of explosion in gastronomy. An era during which restaurants were created, food businesses and large caterers emerged. The term gastronomy was also already invented in 1802 by Joseph de Berchoux , at the heart of his work Gastronomy or the man from the fields at the table in 1801 . In the First Empire we loved writing about this great pleasure which is gastronomy; Grimod de la Reynière publishes the Almanacs des Gourmands . The work Phys iology of taste by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin published anonymously in December 1825, two months before the death of its author, had an unexpected success: it was described by a critic of the time as " a divine book which brought to the art of eating the torch of genius . All these gourmets find themselves dining in a renowned establishment: 'La grande taverne de Londres', the restaurant of Antoine Beauvilliers , French chef. This place stands out as the first major restaurant in the capital, with its carefully decorated interiors, cozy lounges, impeccable service, as well as refined cuisine and an exceptional cellar. Beauvilliers, recognized for his remarkable memory, has the unique ability to recognize his clients and advise them in their choices. Former food officer of the Count of Provence, he welcomes his guests dressed in a food officer's uniform and with a sword at his side. Its establishment remained unrivaled for more than two decades, becoming a popular place for the Parisian elite.
During the Empire, prestigious villas, castles and other private mansions offered warm interiors and shimmering decor of great elegance. The candelabra highlight the sumptuous decorations of the reception rooms , which offer decorative cuisine and imperial settings, straight inspired by the Napoleonic campaigns.
But the first Empire is also that of the gastronomic paradox . Napoleon in fact, far from being a fine gourmet, or even a recognized gastronome, was a good soldier more accustomed to quick, even hasty meals, often taken standing up or even on horseback. But as a fine strategist that he is also, he nonetheless appreciates the importance of the table in the daily practice of diplomacy, as well as politics. Reason why the first French emperor delegated to his marshals these meals considered strategic. He even pushed the art of the table to such a level of excellence that French gastronomy radiated everywhere with this unique brilliance which still shines today. The elegance of the setting plays a crucial role in the display of power. At the heart of this political tactic, the porcelain services produced by the famous Sèvres factory hold a special place. The emperor, keen to impress, ordered various dinner services for the imperial palaces and for specific events such as wedding festivities within the imperial family. These fine porcelain services became privileged gifts, offered both to Alexander I of Russia and to dignitaries of the Court.
The greatest goldsmiths, to decorate banquet tables, create exceptional pieces inspired by Greek and Roman Antiquity. Some agree that there was a before and after the Empire in the history of French gastronomy !
The table at the Royal Palace, at Malmaison and on the battlefield
Few banquets during the Empire
Napoleon did not appreciate ceremonial banquets which dragged on and often seemed – with French service – to be endless. And yet, he decided to reestablish "the etiquette of the royal palace", notably with the Emperor's table installed on a platform and overlooking the others. A table around which only the sovereigns, but also the empress, as well as her mother, can sit.
Historians agree that there were only a few large imperial banquets (less than 10 it seems ) given during the period of the Empire. To name just a few, we can mention the one following the coronation in 1804, then the one linked to the distribution of eagles to the armies, the one proposed for the marriage of King Jerome in 1807, or even the banquet given at his wedding with Marie-Louise in 1810, or even that in honor of the baptism of the King of Rome in 1811.
At Napoleon's table
Napoleon I preferred his wine cut with the same volume of rather cool, even iced, water, as was customary during this period of the Empire . Among his favorite grape varieties, we can cite Burgundies and his favorite wine is Chambertin aged 5 or 6 years. Note that the emperor quite often drinks immoderately when his work takes him late into the night.
When it comes to dishes, simplicity is always key and you frequently find a variety of meats on your plate: lamb chops, chicken, but also starchy foods (rather pasta).
Among the favorite recipes of Emperor Napoleon are Corsican tagliatelle or macaroni timbales, or Richelieu boudin with apples deliciously flavored with cinnamon. He also appreciates various cold meats, such as crepinettes. As for fruits, Napoleon had a real love for dates, a souvenir of his Egyptian campaign. Coffee and chocolate are his guilty pleasures.
Perhaps his infamous chronic stomach pains (many times immortalized in paintings depicting him with one hand positioned inside his vest) did not favor his taste for gastronomy.
Joséphine takes charge of receptions and the art of hosting becomes grandiose
Let us remember, however, that if the emperor was not keen on gastronomy, Joséphine de Beauharnais, who had a sure taste in all things, decided to take charge of the receptions at Malmaison , spending lavishly (50,000 francs per year for the wine…).
Distinguished guests parade through the imperial residence and the best cooks of the time are commissioned to prepare delicate dishes to impress the gallery. Sometimes they add exotic (Creole) notes their Empire recipes
Chicken Marengo, the famous recipe from Napoleon's cook
According to legend, when the Emperor had just split his army into two distinct corps, as during the Battle of Waterloo, General Desaix arrived at the rear of the Austrians, mistreated them then ended up dying in the Battle of Marengo ( June 14, 1800). Napoleon, although pained, was so relieved to have survived that he immediately asked for something to eat. Dunand, his cook in the Italian army, prepares a dish based on local products in order to calm the conqueror's pressing hunger. A chicken is then cut up, then fried in olive oil and seasoned with tomato pulp enhanced with cognac. And to accompany this improvised dish, fried eggs and crayfish are added.
Beyond the legend, it is commonly accepted that the dish known as chicken Marengo actually has its roots in a culinary tradition from Piedmont where Napoleon savored this dish the day before the famous battle. After winning, he asked his chef, Dunand, to prepare this famous Piedmontese chicken again. Dunand complies, but adapts the original recipe, due to not having all the necessary ingredients.
In any case, this recipe, found in haste by Dunand, despite the meager provisions he had after the victory of Marengo over the Austrian troops, has since been prepared everywhere in France and also available with rabbit or veal.
The chefs of the Empire at the service of imperial power
Let us cite several talented cooks who put knives, pans and passions in the service of power: François Claude Guignet , known as Dunant , who entered Bonaparte's service very early, but also André Viard, author of the famous work Le Cuisinier Impérial ou l'art de faire. cooking and baking for all fortunes , book adapted in various versions during the 19th century: Le Cuisinier royal , then Le Cuisinier national , to once again become Le Cuisinier imperial . An ambiguous character, both discreet, but also eccentric, he is considered a true genius in his field. He attracted the attention of the archchancellor Jean-Jacques de Cambacérès who entrusted him with the organization of several of his banquets.
Antonin Carême , nicknamed the “king of chefs and the chef of kings”, shines like an undisputed star in the firmament of haute gastronomy. His career, beginning in the humble kitchens of Paris, is a true culinary odyssey. He quickly revealed himself as a pastry prodigy, captivating the attention of the capital's gourmets.
It did not take long for his exceptional talent to cross the walls of Parisian kitchens. Carême attracted the attention of influential figures of his time, notably Charles Maurice de Talleyrand, diplomat and fine gastronome. For Talleyrand, Carême created sumptuous feasts, thus consolidating his reputation as a culinary master. Beyond Talleyrand, Carême serves notable figures such as Emperor Francis I of Austria, Tsar Alexander I of Russia and King George IV of England. Each service is a demonstration of his genius, combining creativity and refinement.
His contributions to culinary literature are also groundbreaking. Works like Le Pâtissier Royal Parisien and the five-volume work The Art of Cooking in the 19th Century are not just collections of recipes: they are manifestos that redefine the culinary art.
The disappearance of Carême, on February 12, 1833, marks the end of an era, but its legacy remains imperishable. His disciple, Armand Plumerey , takes up the torch, drawing inspiration from his mentor to continue to elevate the art of French cuisine. It was he who, after the death of Carême, completed The Art of Cooking in the 19th Century .
So, although Lent is no longer with us, his spirit, through his creations, his writings, and his disciples, continues to nourish and inspire the world of gastronomy around the world. Carême is the first cook to truly hold the title of Chef . It was he who established the hat as an emblem of elite cuisine . It was in 1821, while serving for the British ambassador in Vienna, that he first wore this distinctive headdress. Inspired by the elegant uniforms present during the Congress of Vienna, Carême reinvents the traditional soft headdresses that are already called toques , transforming them into more structured toques thanks to the integration of a circle of rigid cardboard. His approach, combining the finesse of his cuisine with impeccable presentation, helps to forge the professional stature of the chef. This innovation quickly gained popularity, spreading the prestige of the chef's hat well beyond European borders. However, it is with Auguste Escoffier that the contemporary hat, pleated and straight, imposes itself in its current version, but that is another story...
Books and references on gastronomy under the Empire
On the revenue side :
- The art of French cuisine in the 19th century by Antonin Carême
- The Royal Parisian Pastry Chef by Antonin Carême
- The principal of Parisian cuisine: Treatise on hot starters, fat and lean burps, vegetable desserts, sweet desserts and others by Armand Plumerey
- The art of the cook by Antoine Beauvilliers
- Preliberate and curious about Napoleon's table by Ada Corneri
To go further in the discovery of gastronomy under the Empire of Napoleon I :
- The Empire at the Table by Anne-Marie Nisbet and Victor-André Massena
- From Grognards to Napoleon: The kitchens of the Empire followed by Recipes for ceremonies and bivouac by Jean-Paul Escalettes
- Manual of amphitryons by Grimod de La Reynière
- Almanac of gourmands by Grimod de La Reynière
- Physiology of taste by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin
Ancient Recipes from the First Napoleonic Empire
Welcome to the era of the Empire , a period in French history that marks gastronomy and the art of hosting . The inventiveness of the chefs and cooks of the First Empire leaves precious and memorable taste notes, served in elegant and grandiose atmospheres.
La Table du Temps Jadis invites you to discover tasty recipes which marked the Empire and which can be made with today's ingredients.
What a pleasure to share with you these recipes from yesteryear that you will be able to prepare for your pleasure or that of your guests…
