With the table of times gone by,
discover the gastronomy of the Grand Siècle, or aristocratic cuisine
discover the gastronomy of the Grand Siècle, or aristocratic cuisine

A new balance between modernity and tradition redefines gastronomy
Between the end of the 16th and the beginning of the 17th century a new cuisine emerged in France , aristocratic cuisine , with its codes, methods and savoir-faire. Spices gave way to bouquets garnis and aromatics, butter became a staple in many dishes, and we saw the birth of stews, sauces, broths and other cooking bases for concocting dishes.
A new, more modern culinary art was born, definitively breaking with medieval tradition. The profile of the Gourmet emerged, resonating with a certain refinement of morals and a new sensitivity of all the senses. The notions of taste and pleasure became necessary and supported the most refined of quests. Cooks, each more creative and innovative than the last, succeeded one another, and table etiquette became a true art of living.
The 17th century , also called the Grand Siècle , left its mark on gastronomy, and with it " the French Table " established itself as a mark of elegance and refinement. After the opulence and decorum of the Renaissance, the reign of Louis XIII marked a culinary eclipse. That of the Sun King (Louis XIV), saw the emergence of a new gastronomy that mirrored everything that characterized and reflected the monarchy, with notes that were as sumptuous as they were distinguished.
French gastronomy then established its rules in the kitchen, with what was considered "good taste" in relation to food. A culinary approach and art full of subtleties and requirements developed in bourgeois and aristocratic homes. During this period of French history, marked culinary controversies crystallized between the most modernists and the traditionalists, with disagreements appearing at the heart of cookbooks.

The Grand Siècle period marked the birth of great cuisine and a certain art of the table.
Grande cuisine and its codes
Thus the " French service more complex during the Grand Siècle (17th century was enriched with numerous codes . At court, protocol refinement and the era of domesticity were at their height.
the ambigu " prepared by François Vatel, the greatest French maître d'hôtel, on August 17, 1661 at the Château de Vaux Le Vicomte for Louis XIV on the occasion of the party organized by Nicolas Fouquet, Superintendent of Finances of the King, in honor of the latter (without knowing that he would have regretted it...). The ambigu is a feast subtly merging the characteristics of a light snack and a supper, where meat dishes and sweet treats are served together. All the preparations, whether hot or cold, savory or sweet, are arranged with artistic elegance on a single sideboard, orchestrating an exquisite setting that enchants the eye as much as the palate. The ambiguous is very well described in the book "The Art of Treating Well" (1674), page 360 " we first put everything together, but with a very just order and compartment which pleasantly delights the senses and which gives appetite to the most disgusted ". The service of the ambiguous can be compared to the most magnificent buffets of our days, with the difference that the guests are seated around the table.
The guests, depending on their rank and place, do not have access to all the dishes, which, as soon as they are touched, are served again to other tables, used for the preparation of stuffing or even for the servants' meals.
It should also be noted that the resale of leftovers made up part of the servants' wages at this time. It is easy to imagine that by loading the dishes as much as possible and speeding up their rotation on their masters' tables, they made more profit. A dish placed in the middle of the royal table was never left empty; this would also be a lack of elegance and decorum.
The Christian religion remained powerful during the Grand Siècle. As in the Middle Ages, meat was not eaten on days considered lean, out of respect for dogma. During periods of fasting (Lent, etc.), a sweet snack was permitted in the evening, supplementing the only meal of the day.
The transition from a lean day to a fat day, the "medianoche" or "réveillon" (midnight), gives access to a meat meal and signals the time for entertainment at the king's court.
The art of the table in the Grand Siècle
The table, set in an elegant and refined way, is decorated with flowers arranged in garlands. The tablecloths are white, linen or damask. In the center of the table, we find the
"above all", also called "dormant": a piece of goldsmith's work which brings together salt shakers, spices, mustard pot, oil cruet, vinegar cruet, sugar bowl, vases and torches.
Each guest is provided with an individual cutlery set: knife, spoon and three-pronged fork are placed on one side of the plate, but the use of the fork remains limited: it goes from the dish to the plate to serve, then the fingers take over for tasting. For the record, it was in the 17th century that, at the table, the blade of the knife became rounded and this thanks to Richelieu who could no longer tolerate his guests using the tip of the knife to clean their teeth (which I understand perfectly).
Louis XIV loved pomp and, at court, the plates and cutlery were made of silver. It was during this same century that the nobles had their coats of arms engraved on the back of their cutlery. According to legend, it was Cardinal Mazarin who brought back the soup plate from Italy in 1653 (this plate is called "mazarine").
Bottles and glasses are not placed on the tables (particularly due to fears of poisoning). When they want to drink, guests must ask the waiters. The glasses are placed in glass bowls arranged on side tables.

How is a meal composed at the Table of Louis XIV?
During the Grand Siècle era, the protocol order of the royal dinner was in place.
Here is an example of a menu for a " petit couvert " (the meal Louis XIV ate alone in his apartment) served to him on November 16, 1700: to start, four soups (at that time, this was the name given to dishes cooked in a pot, so don't think of it as a light ) including a bisque of young pigeons and partridges with cabbage. The starters followed, with grilled pies and skinned hens with truffles. For the second course, roasts, meat, and fish. Finally, for dessert, he was served dried plum and cherry preserves, candied oranges, orange peel, marzipan and biscuits, figs, melons, and various compotes.
For the " Grand Couvert ", the crowd presses into the antechamber of the king's apartment to attend the meal that the sovereign shares with his family. This supper is divided into five courses: the first is that of soups. Then comes the second course, that of meats, which will be accompanied by salads. The third course, that of desserts, precedes the pyramid of fruits. And to finish his meal, the Sun King appreciates being served a hard-boiled egg and sweets. During this supper, approximately 40 dishes are presented to the king ...
The king ate a lot, too much according to his doctors, who were worried about his gout attacks. But Louis XIV was greedy and above all, as we have just seen, well served.
What did we eat during the Grand Siècle? Pleasure above all!
This is undoubtedly a cuisine that prioritizes pleasures well before well-being and health. Moreover, the gastronomy of the Grand Siècle no longer concerns itself with the old precautions and other health rules that had been applied until then. Thus, the use of foodstuffs that could be harmful (such as mushrooms or the abundance of truffles, etc.) accelerates and curbs the use of spices from distant lands, used by ancient galenic medicine (medicinal and corrective of health defects).
Fattier, denser sauces were preferred over slightly acidic sauces (vinegar and agretto were used as disinfectants for centuries). The love of good food was no longer seen as a sin of gluttony, but rather as the very expression of good taste and a healthy belief that was truly developing during this era: good food helped maintain good health.
The decline of spices, in favor of aromatic herbs
Spices were no longer considered rare commodities; during the Grand Siècle, their democratization was observed in the heart of numerous urban markets. Their consumption became commonplace, and refined tables substituted aromatic plants that gave rise to the famous bouquet garni, the "packet", often used today (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, chives, tarragon, rosemary, etc.).
Appearance of sauces, stews, juices and coulis
The cuisine of the Grand Siècle became more technical , innovative methods emerged.
Meats and fish are no longer sweetened, sugar is no longer used in abundance, but is preferred for baking. Lean sauces gradually disappear, with mustard being the last survivor. Fatty, voluptuous, and flavorful sauces take their place, composed of butter, eggs, and cream that blend with refinement with the delicacy of the new flavors of fresh herbs.
Roux (even if it was not yet called that) was born with a new binding technique (based on butter and flour); this technique appeared for the first time in the book " Le Cuisinier François" (1651) by La Varenne in a recipe for turkey with raspberries. Massialot, in his "Le cuisinier roïal et bourgeois" offers us several recipes for coulis , which he defines as " a type of sauce, used for binding and to give a pleasant flavor to things "; this ancestor of our stocks, is prepared with a sort of meat broth (or vegetable broth, for lean days) enriched with a binding agent (bread, flour), seasoned with salt, pepper and fresh herbs then passed through a sieve.
Emulsified sauces are perfect accompaniments for fish (pike, etc.). This is when hollandaise sauce was created, whose name is a tribute to the French victory in the Dutch War (1672-1678).
Another great innovation of this time was the practice of deglazing roasted meats in closed containers, giving rise to the “grand nourishing broth”. This broth is generally composed of beef, veal, mutton, their offal, various poultry and bacon, to which a “packet”, in other words a bouquet garni, is commonly added.
The return of vegetables to the kitchen
The Grand Siècle honors vegetables (even root vegetables, which had been poorly perceived until then), which are making a big comeback.
Louis XIV loved asparagus, artichokes and especially peas, but also salads, cucumbers and cauliflowers and in order to be able to enjoy his favorite vegetables at his convenience, he commissioned Jean-Baptiste de La Quintinie to create a vegetable garden near the Palace of Versailles. This remarkable gardener (who was a lawyer converted to horticulture) developed, to the great pleasure of His Majesty, techniques (manure to heat the soil, glass bells, windbreaks) allowing him to pick peas at the very beginning of spring and to have lettuce and asparagus in the middle of winter. The sovereign was also a great lover of pears and La Quintinie, in order to satisfy him, cultivated around fifty varieties of pears in the vegetable garden.
This famous Potager du Roy still exists today and I invite you to go and see it, because it is truly worth the visit.
Pleasure comes to sweets and drinks
The art of jams, compotes, jellies and marmalades became established, as did coffee and tea, which became trendy drinks. Le Procope , a Parisian place popular with the intellectual fringe and thinkers (writers, philosophers) of the time, opened its doors in 1674. It was the first café to be created.
Chocolate chocolate pot appeared with its wooden handle and its lid pierced in the center to allow the frother (a carved wooden rod) to mix the chocolate.
The blending and production of champagne , perfectly mastered by a Benedictine monk, but also an oenologist, Pierre Pérignon (known as Dom Pérignon), contributed to its success on royal tables during the 18th century .

Books and references on the table in the 17th century
- On the revenue side :
- The Cook François de La Varenne
- Moonstone's Cook
- The Royal and Bourgeois Cook of Massialot
- Gastronomy in the Grand Siècle by Françoise Sabban and Silvano Serventi
- 100 Recipes from the time of Louis XIV by Anne de Bergh and Joyce Briand
- To learn more about the Culinary Art of the Grand Siècle :
- Vatel, The splendor of the table under Louis XIV by Nicole Garnier-Pelle
- At the table of the Sun King, story and recipes by Marie and Françoise de La Forest
- Gourmet Memory of Madame de Sévigné by Jean-Yves Patte and Jacqueline Queneau.
