La table du temps jadis
invites you to La Belle Époque,
a gourmet period of splendor and carefreeness
invites you to La Belle Époque,
a gourmet period of splendor and carefreeness
The Belle Époque, and the tone is set!
Here is a beautiful retrospective chrononym which designates a very singular period in the history of France which stretches from the year 1871 to the beginning of what would later be called “The Great War” (the First World War in 1914) . An era marked by upheavals and mutations, where many progress , but also economic, political, and of course technological (phonograph , cinematograph, radio, telephone, aviation, electric light bulb, etc.). In 1889, we witnessed the inauguration of the Paris Universal Exhibition and the construction of the Eiffel Tower for the exhibition remains the most emblematic testimony to this period of innovation .
La Belle Époque, a name that alone evokes an appetite for splendor, delicacies, elegance and festivities. So many positive energies and a certain joy of living which honor this long period of peace which followed the Franco-Prussian war of 1870. The Belle Époque also welcomed the birth of modern cuisine developed by Auguste Escoffier, the man which brings France to the top of world gastronomy. He shapes, among others, the famous Melba peach and the no less famous Belle Hélène pear…
A bustling time, full of life! A period that celebrates Art Nouveau characterized by undulating lines that evoke plant stems, leaves, flowers and organic shapes. This new artistic movement aspires to break with the rigor of previous architectural and decorative styles. These natural motifs are found not only in architecture and the decorative arts, but also in painting, jewelry, furniture and tableware, thus testifying to a global approach to art.
With the democratization of electricity, lighting fixtures (lamps and lampshades) have become iconic and the decoration in the living rooms, as well as on the tables, is opulent . At the beginning of the 20th century, Paris is establishing itself more than ever as the capital of eating well . Bourgeois cuisine spread brilliantly everywhere, even on the menus of the tables of the most aristocratic dandies. Stewed dishes, complex recipes , rich sauces based on cream or butter linked to flour... So many culinary approaches which mark a skilful cuisine , but not very light.
A Belle Époque dinner, an abundant menu ordered in a strict manner
The meal, an organized protocol with formal rules
Belle Époque meals reflected the importance of conviviality and gustatory pleasure, with meticulous attention paid to the presentation of dishes, the quality of ingredients and the harmony of flavors. These meals, often prolonged and accompanied by lively conversations, were a reflection of an era when luxury and the art of living were celebrated with pomp. Around 10 dishes make up the Belle Époque menu... Impressive for our contemporary stomachs! A particularly abundant menu, which also follows an essential protocol and very rigorous composition rules.
Here's a look at the typical structure of an elaborate meal from this era, which can vary depending on the degree of formality and the occasion, with examples of dishes offered on Auguste Escoffier's menus:
- Hors d'oeuvres : The meal begins with a selection of light hors d'oeuvres, designed to stimulate the appetite. These appetizers could include stuffed eggs, fresh caviar, smoked salmon, boats of crayfish, oysters, melon, shrimp salad, sardine mousse, Westphalian ham, Greek artichokes, etc.
- Soups : The soup makes its debut, warming the soul and whetting the appetite. Clear like a pâté or rich and creamy, it prepares the palate for the following delights. Escoffier offers, among other things, poached egg pâté, fresh pea velouté, crayfish bisque, curry poultry velouté, watercress and sorrel cream, chicken au pot, Chantilly lentil puree, etc.
- Eggs ( served only at lunch ): Auguste Escoffier's Culinary Guide has just under 200 egg preparations and more than 50 omelette recipes! Its menus frequently offer scrambled eggs with asparagus tips or tomatoes, Grand Duke eggs, soft-boiled eggs Lorette, eggs à la Reine, poached eggs Florentine style, omelettes with truffles, kidneys, artichokes and chives...
- Fish : The fish dish often follows accompanied by a delicate sauce and vegetables. The sauces and toppings are carefully chosen to complement the taste of the fish. In this iodized stage, you can find sole Meunière, skate in black butter, brill with fine herbs, American lobster, oysters au gratin, crayfish soufflé, mullet à la maître d'hôtel, cod brandade, grilled salmon Béarnaise…
- Relishes : After the fish come the relishes, a meat preparation accompanied by vegetables: pan-fried saddle of veal with new carrots, braised beef tongue with chicory in cream, saddle of venison in pepper sauce with chestnut puree, capon with puree celery, ham with spinach, saddle of lamb from Prés-salés with turnip puree…
- Starters : Preparations of meat, game or offal, usually presented in a creative and complex manner. The starters include parsleyed foie gras escalopes, Rossini partridge fillets, sautéed chicken with porcini mushrooms and cream, grilled sweetbreads with asparagus tips, lamb chop with peas, veal head with oil, Portuguese-style tomato tournedos, veal blanquette…
- Cold buffet : A cold food service which includes a wide choice of terrines, jellied meat, roast beef, pâtés, poultry and vegetable mousses, foie gras, etc.
- Roasts ( served only at dinner ): usually consists of a poultry dish (duck, chicken, capon, etc.) or game (hare, venison, etc.). The succulent meat is roasted to perfection. Flanked by vegetables and topped with sauces, it is the centerpiece of the meal.
- Salads : A light salad follows the roast, often with lettuce, lamb's lettuce or endive, aimed at aiding digestion with vegetal notes.
- Vegetables : It's vegetable time with a variety of vegetables: asparagus, Italian artichokes, Brussels sprouts, stuffed lettuce, cauliflower, green beans, new apples, tomatoes au gratin...
- Desserts : Desserts conclude the meal with a variety of hot and cold desserts: the hot selection offers soufflés, sweet omelettes, fruit or acacia flower fritters, fruits flambéed in liqueur, Norwegian omelette, charlottes, creams, puddings or even crepes like the unforgettable Crêpes Suzette. On the cold side, we find mousses, mixed fruits and fruit compotes, small cold pots of cream, Mont-Blanc with Marrons, caramel cream, Chantilly meringue, strawberry rice, orange jelly, fruit tarts, Bavarois , blancmange, Melba peach, Sarah Bernhardt strawberry, Belle-Hélène pear…
- The meal ended with coffee served black, accompanied by sweets . Digestives, such as cognac or Armagnac, could also be offered.
Champagne!… And great red or white wines are on the menu
As for drinks, it's the waltz of champagne glasses, a tasty beverage very popular during the Belle Époque . The Maxim's restaurant, which is the essential rallying point of Belle Époque Paris, is consecrated as the sanctuary of champagne. This drink is the preferred choice of elites, gentlemen and elegant ladies of the time.
The wines are not left out and even less the great grape varieties, white or red. Bordeaux wines are already highly esteemed, particularly those from prestigious regions such as Médoc (including châteaux such as Margaux, Lafite Rothschild, Latour, and Mouton Rothschild) and Graves. These wines are synonymous with luxury and refinement. Burgundy also produces highly sought-after wines, thanks to its renowned appellations and famous estates . The wines of Côte d'Or, particularly those of Romanée-Conti and Montrachet, are particularly prized for their exceptional quality. Wines from the Rhône Valley , especially those from Hermitage, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Côte-Rôtie, were beginning to be recognized for their robust and spicy character.
wines from Alsace , with their fruity and floral character, are gaining popularity. Rieslings, Gewurztraminers and other Pinot Gris are appreciated for their freshness and elegance. Loire Valley wines , with their diversity ranging from dry to sweet, are also in vogue. Appellations like Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé for whites and Chinon or Bourgueil for reds are highly esteemed.
The pairing of wine and food is an important thing and should not be neglected either. So the sommelier rules come into play with whites preferred for fish and rather tannic reds to accompany meats.
Water is only finally invited into gourmet meals when the greenery (salad) appears. But wine consumption picks up again as soon as the desserts arrive (sweet white or the unmistakable Champagne).
Absinthe , also known as the “Green Fairy”, saw its peak from 1880 to 1910. Initially appreciated by the bourgeois elite, this strong liquor, distilled at 70°, quickly charmed the world of the arts. From writing to impressionist painting, she has fascinated a vast and varied circle of followers. However, faced with accusations of inducing madness, absinthe was finally outlawed in 1915. During the Belle Époque, France began a fervent campaign against the use of alcohol, targeting absinthe in particular , while, in a striking contrast, wine and, even more so, champagne, are consecrated national symbols, representative of a sophisticated exhilaration.
Escoffier, a king of gastronomy who revolutionized Belle Epoque cuisine
French chef, Auguste Escoffier (1846 – 1935) undoubtedly left his indelible mark on cuisine during the Belle Époque . He modernized it, designing numerous famous dishes and desserts which contributed to the expansion of the international aura of French cuisine .
The collaboration between Auguste Escoffier and César Ritz , the pioneer of luxury hotels, is one of the most emblematic and influential alliances in the history of gastronomy and hospitality. Together, they redefined the experience of luxury in hotels and restaurants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, laying the foundations of modern hospitality. They met in 1884 in Monte-Carlo where César Ritz, director of the Grand Hôtel, asked him to take charge of the kitchens of the Grand Hôtel de Monte-Carlo in winter and those of the Grand National in Lucerne in summer. Their collaboration truly took off when they decided to join forces to transform the hotel and restaurant industry into an unprecedented experience of refinement and service.
Their first major joint venture was the opening of the Savoy Hotel in London in 1889. César Ritz took charge, and Escoffier was in charge of the kitchens. Together, they introduce new standards of service and culinary quality. Their success at the Savoy was dazzling: they attracted the elite of the time, from European royalty to celebrities and industry moguls. They innovated by introducing printed menus, multi-course dinners served at individual tables (rather than buffets), and meticulous attention to ingredient selection. After the Savoy, Escoffier took charge of managing the kitchens at the Ritz in Paris and the Carlton in London.
Escoffier is also a man of heart, careful to ensure that the food wasted in his restaurants is distributed to the Little Sisters of the Poor. In recognition of his sustained commitment to social initiatives throughout his career, his significant contribution to the culinary art and the excellence of French gastronomy, as well as for his remarkable humanism, Escoffier was honored in 1919 by the most prestigious distinction in France, that of Knight of the Legion of Honor.
Auguste Escoffier shapes — like an artist — dishes and desserts that have become essentials of French gastronomy . These include the now very popular Suzette pancakes, but also the Nymphe thighs at dawn, the Jeannette Poultry Supreme, the Bombe Néro, without forgetting the Pêche Melba (in homage to the Australian lyric singer Nellie Melba) and many more. other delights which even today awaken our taste buds at the mere mention of them.
Escoffier masters to perfection this subtle art of preparing and cooking food . Inventive, daring, innovative, he developed the concept of kitchen brigade, and signed works such as Le Guide Culinaire (1903), Le Livre des Menus (1912), Ma Cuisine (1934). The Emperor of Germany William II also declared about him: “ I am Emperor of Germany, but you are Emperor of Chefs ”, a great recognition for a talent that has marked the history of cooking. French !
Books and references on gastronomy under the Empire
- On the revenue side :
- The Culinary Guide by Auguste Escoffier
- My kitchen by Auguste Escoffier
- To find out more about the culinary art and the significant events of La Belle Époque :
- Culinary memories by Auguste Escoffier
- The Book of Menus by Auguste Escoffier
- The Belle Époque as the French experienced it from L'Illustration under the direction of Jean-Louis Festjens
Old Recipes from the Belle Époque
What a wonderful journey through time that takes us back to this festive period in French history, where the abundant gastronomy of the Belle Époque highlights all this passion for splendor, elegance and modernity.
I am happy to offer you in my blog old recipes from the Belle Époque to prepare for the greatest pleasure of your guests, served at a table where modern culinary art takes its place... Bon voyage and bon appetit!